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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.